Tutorials & Equipment Reviews
Papers, My Thoughts.
by Ziggy
Ziggykor@hotmail.com
Before you read this:
here is some information you need to be aware of. The information shared in
this article has been compiled almost exclusively from Mastering Digital
Printing Second Edition, written by Harald Johnson. ISBN:
1-59200-431-8. Although in most cases the words are mine, the reality is that
this is nothing more than quotes, paraphrasing and outright plagarism of his
very informative work. If you are at all serious about digital printing this
book is a must for your library!
Lately I have been experimenting with
various papers in an attempt to find one that best reproduces the intent of my
photography. What I've found is that just as the fine points of workflow are
image driven, so is the choice of print media.
I have never been one to use a specific paper simply because the printer manufacturer tells me that it provides the best results when used with OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) products. One reason for this is that each manufacturer seems to test only their own product, on their own equipment, to ultimately achieve the best result from their product line.
Example: Have you ever seen the statement regarding optimum performance based on the comparison between Canon papers (on a Canon printer) and HP or Epson? What about Hahnemuehle, Harman, Inkpress or Ilford? I haven't! To the best of my knowledge, even the Wilhelm Labs only test each paper on several different printers and then share those results without comparison. Still, this is more than the OEM people are doing. Plus they aren't making paper recommendations.
Now I don't pretend to be an expert on papers, nor do I know or understand all the terminology used in that world. Believe me when I tell you that the "Print World" speaks a language as foreign as that of attorney's and scientist's. But there are some general terms that you should have a basic understanding of.
Here's a list of things I've learned, with sub-headings: Paper Type (coated or uncoated) Is the coating Microporous, Resin Coated or Swellable? Classifications like "photo paper" and fine art paper" are used. Surface characteristics like Glossy, Matte and Satin.
Then there are paper characteristics: Size, Substrate, Color, Weight, Caliper, Coating, Finish, pH, Brightness, Optical Brightness, Opacity, Dmax, Permanence/Lightfastness, Free Profiles Provided, Printable sides and Cost.
What does it all mean? First lets begin with Paper Type. For our purposes there are two main types, Coated and Uncoated. Uncoated paper is a plain bond paper used in laser printers and copiers throughout the world. Beyond that, there are high end, mould made fine-art papers used for watercolors, drawings and traditional printmaking.
Bond papers do not have a coating that is receptive to inkjet use and poor image quality is the result. Uncoated art papers can be used with inkjet printers, but produce the best results with dye-based inks.
The second paper type is Coated Inkjet Paper. These papers can include certain fine-art papers that have been coated to handle inkjet printer inks. This is possible through the inclusion of a receptor coating on the papers surface.
Uncoated paper has two main components, a base (substrate) and sizing. The substrate is the base and forms the papers structure including thickness, strength and weight. Sizing acts as a seal which binds the fibers and aids in resisting the absorbtion of moisture.
Now I realize that the majority of photographers will usually use, and be happy with, either OEM or low cost store brand media. For the uses desired by this group these provide more than acceptable results. The information here is directed towards the more serious enthusiast looking for more expression in their work. Therefore, for this article I haven't used any OEM papers on my personal printer.
So just what have I used to come up with my personal findings? Lets begin with the printer and inks. My printer is an HP Photosmart 8750 and I have been using OEM print cartridges. This printer is capable of accepting paper up to 13X19 inches. Although for test purposes I've restricted paper sizes to 8 1/2 X 11 or Letter size. The inks used were those recommended by HP for this printer.
How is inkjet coated paper categorized?
Frequently suppliers classify coated papers using the term, "photopaper" and "fine art paper". Photo papers usually have a resin-coated component structure and a glossy or semi-glossy surface. In short, they look like traditional photographic papers. On the other hand, fine-art papers often have the look and feel of traditional water color paper.
One additional way to classify paper is in the finish used. Glossy, semi-glossy, matte, satin, pearl and others. These terms may inform you of the papers appearence, but very little about the best possible ink/printer combination for getting optimum results.
The most informative method of categorizing papers is by sharing the technology used in the coating. Knowing this can assist you in understanding what can and can not be done with a particular paper/ink combination. Microporous, swellable and resin-coated are the three primary categories.
Microporous is a fairly new solution to help resolve the problem of printers laying down ink faster than it can dry. The paper has a microporous coating of very fine inorganic particles which create voids or cavities in the coating. Ink is absorbed into the cavities and the particles prevent the ink from spreading. This technology provides us with very fast drying prints, but the open areas of the coating do allow air to come into contact with the inks.
Swellable paper coatings are a coating that swells around the ink after it is applied to the paper. Only a very thin layer of ink is exposed to the elements. This category of paper is designed to be used with dye-based ink sets only.
Resin-coated (RC) is not really a coating, but how the paper has been made. RC papers have been used in the traditional darkroom for many years and have recently started to find their way into the world of inkjet printing. Simply explained, the paper is constructed having four layers. The bottom layer is polyethelyne, above that is a paper base, above that is another polyethylene layer, last an ink receptor coating is applied. This final coating is the factor which determines the printing performance of the paper. Additionally, be sure to determine compatibility if your printer uses pigment inks.
Previsualization, don't ya hate that term?
Before moving to a discussion of the more specific paper characteristics there is one additional issue that must be stressed. Simply stated, you should know how you want the final printed image to be reproduced before you even press the shutter release button of your camera! That old, tired thing called "previsualization".
Why is previsualization important? One word, Cost! In the digital world ink and paper aren't cheap. Plus, some printers have integral printheads which have a set life expectancy. Unless you have some minds eye idea of how the final print should look, coupled with some understanding of the results a paper reproduces, you'll have to use a process of elimination to arrive at what you're after.
Now without factoring in the cost of ink per printed sheet and the other variables, you can expect one sheet of 8.5 by 11 "photo Quality" paper to cost around $1.00. Additionally, if you are doing fine-art work, work for sale or an exhibition, costs can be much higher and increase exponentially with paper size increases.
What about work and evaluation prints? Do you really believe that you can evaluate a 72dpi image on the monitor as effectively as you can a hard copy viewed under display quality lighting? Many manufacturers make a thinner paper designed expressly for this purpose.
Questions on characteristics you should resolve.
Size: Yes, size does matter! This may seem a no brainer, but if it don't fit your printer you've got a problem. You need to know if the paper you'd like to use is available in a size your printer can accomodate. Does it come in standard US sizes, or European? Is it available in sheets or rolls?
Substrate: How has the paper been made? What is the substrate material? Is it wood pulp, cotton rag, plastic, RC or other synthetics. What is used to bind the substrate together? This last can have dramatic impact on how your image will age.
Color: The whiter the substrate the more reflection beneath the ink, giving better color gamut. But, not all whites are equal. Some are colder than others, some are creamy. Each will print out differently and will effect viewer response to the image. Does the paper color compliment what you want the image to say?
Weight: "The standard measurement of paper weight for inkjet paper is grams per square meter (gsm)." This can lead to some confusion as paper weight does not actually reflect thickness.
Caliper (thickness): Of the two, weight and thickness, this is the more useful measurement. Without knowing a papers caliper you could purchase a paper that your printer is not able to accomodate. Caliper is measured in "mils" or points. One mil is 1/1,000 of an inch, and is determined by the combined thickness of the paper. Note: rolls and sheets of the same paper are not always the same caliper.
Coating: Important because you need to match, as closely as possible, the coating to your ink type and printer. Not doing so can result in possible problems like ink puddling, smearing, excessive dot gain and many more.
Finish: Simply stated, this is the texture of the papers surface.The finish can help to bring out or hide details within your print.
pH: Your paper should have a neutral pH, (pH 7).
Brightness: Usually given on a scale of 1 - 100. The higher the number the brighter the paper.
Optical Brighteners: Known as Optical Brightening Agents (OBA's). They are added to inkjet papers and coatings to increase their whiteness and brightness.
Opacity: With one print laying atop another, can you see through to the lower print? Called "show through" this can be an issue with thinner papers, and even some that are thicker.
Dmax: This is a reading of the maximum density possible at the greatest black ink levels. How black are your blacks? Are they pure and alive, or a muddy dark color?
Permanence/Lightfastness: How long will the printed image resist fading or color shifting based on the interaction of ink, paper, display or storage? Read your paper's specs carefully. Visit Wilhelm Imaging Research (WIR) to see if they've determined a performance rating for your paper choice.
Free Profiles: I spent twentyfive years in the armed forces and we had a saying that is still true, "If it's free, it's for me!". Does the vendor or manufacturer provide free printer/ink profiles to assist you in achieving optimum results.
Two Sided: Another no-brainer right? Most papers have been made with only one side optimized to accept inkjet inks. If the job requires double sided printing you'd better find out if the chosen paper will do so.
Cost: How much does a single, unprinted sheet of paper cost. Is it more cost effective to purchase a box of fifty sheets than to purchase a pack of twenty-five? For proof and evaluation purposes will a lower cost paper work. I don't suggest that you limit your paper choice by cost, just that you should know what your cost per sheet is. In most cases, as in other things, you get what you pay for in the long run.
Some papers I've used and my impressions on them.
Note: These are not recommendations, simply my observations.
Fineline Smooth Cotton. Slightly warm, off white. Very slight texture. Good for expressive portraits. Excellent weight and caliper.
Fineline Fibre Photo Gloss. (300 gsm) This is the heaviest paper that I've tested with my current printer. The rep that sent the sample to me told me that many photographers equate this to the old Cibachrome Paper. To be honest I did not find it to begin to come near that. This paper is more a semi-gloss rather than the deep rich almost 3D of Cibachrome. The paper surface is a bright white that when viewed beside a brilliant white has a subtle creamy surface.Warmer colors seem to exhibit a warm orange/yellow cast. Very good Dmax and fine details. This paper is very thick and stiff. I recommend that you either raise the printer rollers or feed this paper so that it remains flat. Not doing so can lead to the rollers leaving marks on your print.
Harman Matte FB. Bright, but not brilliant, white. Microporous with an additional Baryta layer on a true photographic fiber base. The Baryta layer is below the ink receiving layer, and enhances detail and definition plus extends tonal range. Excellent weight and caliper.Very realistic and true color reproduction without oversaturation. Grayscale rendered with amazing detail. Smooth matte surface with very slight warmth.
Inkpress PhotoChrome RC Lustre. Look and feel of traditional RC Photopaper.Has a bright white surface with very high brilliance and a satin texture.
Inkpress fine-art Matte. Nice caliper, warm white base, soft matte. Renders colors very nicely.
Inkpress Photo Chrome RC U-Glossy. Brilliant white glossy surfaceHigh Dmax and saturated color reproduction.
Inkpress Fiber Gloss. 12mil/250 gsm. Very Brilliant white surface, Slightly cool. High Dmax and wonderful color reproduction.
Inkpress Picture Rag Cool Tone 200. 15mil. One-hundred percent Cotton Rag. Brilliant white, surface has a very slight/subtle texture. Prints beautiful toned Grayscale images. I've used Photoshop Quadtones in RGB Mode for better color.
Inkpress Print Plus Semi-Gloss 2 Sided. 9mil/210 gsm. Brilliant white surface. Colors are rendered neutrall to slightly cool. Vert good Dmax and print detail. Although on the thin side I didn't notice any show through.
Ilford Galerie Pro Smooth Fine Art. Gentle warm beige/white. Handles color very well and beautiful black and white. High Dmax. Wonderful texture that can enhance the final image.
Ilford Printasia Premium Gloss. 254 gsm. Found no data on lightfastness. Resin coated high gloss with a slight creamy white. Good Dmax and color handling.
Jet Print Pro Satin. Found no data on lightfastness. Very slight warm white with a nice satin surface. Good for both color and grayscale.
Promaster Photo Image Pro, Photo Matte and Photo Gloss. A heavyweight paper that has the look and feel of traditional photographic papers. Both have a high Dmax and print out neutral grayscale images. Brilliant white. Fine details are well seen in the image. No lightfastness data found on these two papers.
Office Depot Platinum Pro Brilliant Gloss. Told you I tried many different papers. No data found on lightfastness. Soft warm yet bright white. Traditional feel. Handles both color and grayscale as well as toned images well.
Hahnemuehle William Turner 190 gsm. Slight cream off white with very gentle texture. Very good for both color and grayscale images. Has almost the same feel as Ilford Galerie Pro Smooth, but with less pronounced texture.
Hahnemuehle "Torchon". 285 gsm, has the look and feel of a classic watercolor paper. A bright yet slight warm whiteness and very pronounced texture which adds depth to the image. Wonderful image reproduction with high Dmax and contrast, plus color. Caliper is greater than both William Turner and Ilford Galerie Pro Smooth Fine Art with more pronounced texture.
Some paper sources. In many cases you can receive free or very low cost sample packs from many of these sources. In this way you can determine which best suits your specific needs. Remember, if ya don't ask, ya know the answer!
Digital Technology Group (DTG)
8405 Benjamin Road
Suite J
Tampa, Florida. 33634
Sales: 813/889-0660
Toll Free 800/681-0024
www.dtgweb.com
Inkjet Art Solutions
www.inkjetart.com
Inkjet Mall
www.inkjetmall.com
Shades of Paper
www.shadesofpaper.com
Harman technology Limited
Ilford Way,
Mabberley,Knutsford
Cheshire WA16 7JL, England
www.harman-inkjet.com